CHICK CHAT: It’s Our Fault The Fashion World Still Doesn’t Cast Black Models
It’s no surprise that when it comes to the world of mainstream fashion and beauty, our rich hues are very scarce. It’s been this way since the beginning. Growing up, I don’t remember too many brown models. As with each generation, there were a few tokens—Iman, Naomi and Tyra—that were constantly recycled in fashion and beauty campaigns, as if there was a shortage of qualified Black women on the planet to choose from. Every now and then we’d catch a new face, but the buzz around her was so quiet that you barely remembered her name.
In 2013, the story hasn’t changed much. #TeamBeautiful’s Ty Alexander wrote, “There is just a small list of designers (Tracy Reese, Carolina Herrera, Rachel Roy, and Diane von Furstenberg) that consistently cast black models to represent their collections during New York Fashion Week. For the most part, we are still merely tokens on the runway.” And while we appreciate these woman designers representing us on their runways, the bulk of their models are still White—which I find a bit strange since they’re all ethnic.
An article on Jezebel went as far as to break down the ethnic stats of models that walked in this year’s NYFW presentations. “Those shows presented 4,479 individual women’s wear ‘looks’ to buyers and press, representing 4,479 opportunities for a model to walk the runway or pose in a presentation. 3,706 of those looks, or 82.7%, this season were shown on white models. Asian models nabbed 409, or 9.1% of all the runway looks. Black models were hired for 270, or 6%. Non-white Latina models had 90 looks, or 2%. Models of other races wore 7, or 0.2% of all looks.” The article also lists 14 brands that felt it unnecessary to use any models of color at all: Araks, Assembly, Belstaff, Calvin Klein, Elizabeth & James, Gregory Parkinson, Holmes & Yang, J Brand, Jenni Kayne, Juicy Couture, Louise Goldin, Lyn Devon, Threeasfour and Whit.
Reflecting on the lack of Black, and color in general, at NYFW infuriates me. Considering that this enormous world we live in is mostly comprised with people of color, there is absolutely no legitimate excuse that models of color didn’t even make up 50%, or 35%, or even 20% of the runway looks. People of color came in at a pathetic total of 17.3% *blank face, side eye*. You’ve got to be kidding me! Designers certainly are to blame; and while I’d love to attack them and call them out for their lack of appreciation for brown people and brown dollars, I dare not point the finger because we’re equally to blame. I hate admitting it, but it’s true; and I’m one in the guilty number.