How To Prevent Hair Dye Disasters
(BlackDoctor.org) — Few things spice up your look like some fresh hair color. So, here are eight simple tips to keep your hair coloring adventures fabulous.
1. No More Than Two At A Time
If you try to make a drastic change with hair color, such as going more than two shades lighter or darker than your natural color, it can be a disastrous. If this does happen, run don’t walk to a professional hair colorist – in most cases it can be fixed in one visit. Don’t try to do it yourself! Fixing a bad dye job is a scientific venture and the professionals know exactly what they’re doing. Even when you seek out a beauty professional to perform or correct color, make sure that hair color is their specialty. There is a difference between a hair stylist that sometimes does color and a hair stylist that specializes in color; it is truly an art and a science.
2. Are You “Warm” Or “Cool”?
This is where fabulous hair color begins: most of us look at a hair color on someone and if we like it, we decide, “I want that color.” Unless you have the same warm or cool skin tones as that person, you could be making a big mistake. Many people would like to think this doesn’t matter. But when it comes to hair color, it’s important to know which one you really are (and it has nothing to do with your fantastic personality).
You’re likely a “warm” if you have golden, olive or dark skin and brown or dark eyes (most Latinas, Asians and African Americans fall into this category). “Warm” women tan easily and the veins in their inner wrists are green.
You’re a “cool” if you have fair skin and blue or green eyes, you burn before you tan and the veins in your wrists run blue. If you’re confused because you sometimes burn, sometimes tan, you likely skew warm.
Once you know if you’re a warm or cool, you’ll better know what shades of color look good with your skin tone.
3. How to Choose The Right Color Tone
If you have warm skin, opt for golden shades such as caramel and bronze in a darker shade than your skin. Avoid jet-black hair which will wash you out; and this is especially true as you get older. As we age we tend to lose the warmer tones in our skin and jet black hair can often make a more mature woman look a lot older. If you do opt for a golden shade, don’t go too light or your hair could turn orange – then you’ll write in to me and I’ll send you straight to the salon. Can you go blonde as a “warm”? Yes. But it is a delicate process and should be done in a salon, not on your own.
If you are a cool shade, avoid colors such as gold, auburn or copper. They will only highlight the ruddiness of your skin tone. Ash blondes and cool browns work best.
When you go to the hair salon, ask your stylist to bring out swatches. First pick out the colors you are most drawn to, then hold them up to your face near a window where natural light comes in. Ask the stylist to help you determine which shades and tones work best next to your skin.
4. Don’t Go By The Picture On The Box
Pictures on hair color boxes can be deceiving; often they have been re-touched to show and ideal result. You’re better off going by the color swatches on the box and the descriptions. Most boxes will call out the color (blonde, brown, black and red) and the shade of that color (light, medium and dark). There might also be mention of the tone (golden or ash). This is a better guide to what you’ll end up with.
5. Always Test A Few Strands First
Too many women skip this step and end up with a color they despise. Once the color is in, it’s harder to change.
6. Consider Trying Two Colors
Many stylists create lighter strands around the face. To get this look, invest in a bottle of hair color a shade lighter and paint it on the strands around your face.
7. Don’t Over-Process Your Ends
Once you’ve colored your own hair, you’ll want to re-color the roots. To insure you’re not wrecking your ends, cover ends with conditioner when coloring roots and around your crown. This will protect hair from any damaging hair overlapping and over processing. A few minutes before it’s time to rinse color out, work the color over the conditioned ends. This will add just enough process to update the color, without damaging your ends.
8. One Chemical At A Time
Never relax and use permanent hair color on the same day. Most highly textured hair is challenged by this type of double processing under the best circumstances. Same-day use almost always leads to severe hair damage that is very hard to correct. The rule is relax first, deep condition to prepare the hair for the next chemical service. In two weeks if the hair is healthy enough (no breakage, weakness or dryness), then you may proceed with your hair color. Follow up with intensive deep conditioning combining protein strengtheners and moisturizing softeners.
Once hair has been permanently colored, the golden rule (regardless of your tone) is condition, condition, condition…
By Jacqueline Tarrant, BDO Contributing Writer
Jacqueline Tarrant is a beauty expert, consultant, columnist, founder & CEO of Style Infinity Products & The Hair Trauma Center in downtown Chicago. Jacqueline Tarrant has pioneered effective methods to help men & women re-grow hair with her multi-layered approach to hair loss, known as Quadra-Follicle Stimulation. Jacqueline’s expertise on hair care and hair health is expressed monthly in national columns that reach millions through various publications.
With numerous Style & Beauty appearances nationwide on Good Morning America, NBC, CBS, & the Fox Network; Jacqueline’s credits also extend throughout print in such publications as Seventeen, Cosmopolitan, Essence & the Wall Street Journal to name a few.
Her reputation as a renowned Educator, Trainer and Platform Artist has taken her throughout Canada, Europe, Africa, South America and the Caribbean.
Primarily through her anchor salon on the East coast & her latest location Downtown Chicago, The Hair Trauma Center, Jacqueline has the unique advantage of staying in tune with the pulse of today’s cutting edge hair care and beauty trends. Jacqueline shares her hair and beauty tips through print as a monthly columnist for Sophisticate of Black Hair Magazine with a reach of over 1 million monthly readers monthly.
Men: The New Caregivers?
(BlackDoctor.org) — Today’s struggling economy is forcing families to reorganize resources and rethink roles. Many men who were once their family’s breadwinners are more and more becoming their family’s caregivers.
“They’re not providing money, but they’re providing the labor that wives have been doing for years,” said Kristen Myers, an associate professor of sociology at Northern Illinois University in DeKalb, Ill.
Most men have grown up in a household, and certainly a culture, where females have been perceived as the primary family nurturers. Yet often by necessity, more men than ever are rolling up their sleeves and helping an ill loved one with day-to-day tasks.
Myers and doctoral student Ilana Demantas have been studying the recession’s impact on the so-called “breadwinning ideology.” And what the uncovered after interviews with 20 recently unemployed men whose domestic roles have been turned upside-down was an unprecedented shift in attitudes about gender.
“They take care of the kids, they go shopping, they clean, they take care of sick family members. These men have really embraced this new realm that they wouldn’t have chosen,” said Myers, who with Dementas presented the study findings today at the American Sociological Associations annual meeting in Las Vegas. “They hope it’s temporary and they can go back to work. But in meantime, they’re changing their perspective.”
Today, baby-boomer men in particular may find themselves sandwiched between elder care and child care, and as they juggle work, family, and the needs of an aging parent, their stress and frustration at their daunting and all-consuming new roles can often turn into anger, despair, exhaustion, and burnout…and feelings of not being a “real man.”
Less Of A Man?
Many of the men interviewed for the study have said that the loss in income translates to a loss in their masculinity.
“Not only have they lost their jobs, they’ve also lost an important aspect of what they think it means to be men,” said Myers, adding that many of the men interviewed felt defeated and depressed. “But they’re making the most of it and learning new things. It’s an opportunity to live richer, although poorer lives.”
In addition to bouts of depression, anger and sadness, male caregivers often neglect themselves, eating an inadequate diet, ignoring their need for exercise, getting too little sleep, and postponing visits to the doctor. But the consequences of these behaviors can be serious, and experts stress the importance of continuing to address personal needs while helping to take care of the family.
“Remember that ‘be a man’ means many different things. Yes, our culture has long supported the idea that men work and provide the monetary means for the family’s survival, but men have to realize that they’re not piggy banks. They’re vital and loved members of the family, and it’s always been important for them to be more involved in the growth and development of their family – money is important, but so is time. So is their love. So is just being there,” says Myers.
The Surprising Positive Side Of A Down Economy
In confronting the responsibilities before them, men are more likely than women to communicate with their spouse and delegate some of the caregiving responsibilities to others — either to other family members, or to outside help who they’ve hired to handle many of the home-care duties. This means that, unlike many women, men can sometimes better avoid feeling overwhelmed by their new domestic tasks, while learning to listen and develop stronger partnership skills with their wives.
“Some men feel that they don’t have to do it all on their own, and they’re better than women at saying, ‘I need some help with this — you do this part, and I’ll do that part,'” says Carole Cohen, MD, associate professor of psychiatry at the University of Toronto. “In the work world, they may have become accustomed to this kind of delegating, whereas women of the same generation may be less likely to feel that it’s OK to get help.”
In additional to developing better communication skills, a great number of dads are learning something else – how to be more attentive fathers. Many men are used to seeing their kids grow up from afar because they’re so busy working. For many generations, this is just the way it was. But one positive thing that the current economy has taught many men is how truly valuable it is to actually spend more time with their children, watching them grow, and being more hands on in educating them. Many agree that when the economy improves, dads are going stay a lot more in tune with their kids.
As a result, their children will learn the importance of this, as will their children, and so on — fathers developing more personal relationships with their children will become the new normal for the next generations.
Though more men are adjusting to caregiver roles, of course, they do still take advantage of “masculine” opportunities, such as playing sports with other stay-at-home dads.