Should You Be Relaxer-Free?
(BlackDoctor.org) — There are some in the Black community who believe that relaxing your hair is the equivalent of selling out or wishing to be white. Others see it as a measure to promote manageability. Either way, the debate continues (and each year, home relaxer sales still total over $45 million).
All About The Relaxer
The relaxer was discovered by an African American named Garrett Augustus Morgan. Morgan was born the seventh of eleven children to former slaves. He is best known for his invention of the automatic traffic signal and the gas mask. But it was around 1910 that he stumbled upon what would become his major contribution to the hair care products industry, and what would pave the way for several other entrepreneurs and manufacturers over the next hundred years.
While working in a sewing machine repair shop and attempting to invent a new lubricating liquid for the machine needle, it is widely believed that Morgan wiped the liquid off of his hands and onto a wool cloth. Returning the next day, he found the woolly texture of the cloth had “smoothed out.” Morgan then set out to find how the liquid chemical had changed the cloth’s texture. He experimented on an Airedale dog, known for their curly textured hair, and the effect was successfully duplicated.
Morgan then tried his lubricating liquid invention on himself, called it a “hair refining cream”, and thus patented the first chemical hair straightener. Morgan founded a personal grooming products company which included hair dying ointments, curved-tooth pressing combs, shampoo, hair pressing gloss, and the one that started it all: the “G.A. Morgan’s Hair Refiner Cream” (advertised to “Positively Straighten Hair in 15 Minutes”).
The Relaxer Today
Many years after Morgan’s invention, there have been many social, cultural, and political discussions and debates about relaxing or not relaxing hair.
As a stylist, of course, I believe the bigger issue is that, if performed incorrectly, relaxing can cause hair breakage, hair thinning, lack of hair growth, scalp irritation, scalp damage, and hair loss. These are just some of the complaints from many who experience problems due to the misuse of chemical hair relaxers.
In fact, the FDA lists hair straighteners and hair dyes among its top consumer complaint areas. Because of the fragile nature of highly textured hair, the use of any chemical process should always be done with caution, patience. Following a manufacturer’s directions is always a must.
If applied correctly, hair can be relaxed safely and effectively. But for many of the reasons listed above, many of my clients do change their minds about relaxing their hair, and one of the most frequently asked questions I get is how to successfully transition from a relaxer to natural hair without extreme breakage?
Option 1 – The Slow Transition
• Step 1 – Grow It Out
This step requires a lot of patience, but sometimes it is the only way to transition from relaxed hair back to your natural hair. Hair grows at a length of ¼ -1/2 inch per month so it may take 9 months to 2 years or more to truly grow out your relaxed hair. Of course that will depend on how you care for your hair and how much length will make you feel comfortable.
• Step 2 – Trim Gradually
The easiest rule of thumb is growing an inch, and then cutting an inch. Remember, condition regularly and take care and patience with your hair in that it is very fragile when you have both relaxed and natural texture on one strand. Hair will tend to break off at the point where the 2 textures meet, with the weaker part of the strand, the relaxed part breaking off.
• Step 3 – Condition. Condition. Condition
It is important that you never skip this step. Keeping hair balanced between strength from proteins and softened with moisturizers will be key to a healthy transition.
• Step 4 – Set & Go
Wear textured styles- straw sets, rod set styles, and two strand twisted styles will keep hair healthy and allow the new texture to work with the relaxed hair with minimal damage.
• Option 2 – Cut It All Off
Cutting off all of the relaxed hair and starting fresh is one of the fastest ways to go from relaxed hair to natural hair.
• Option 3 – Temporarily Wear Other Hairstyles
Style your hair in cornrows, braids, extensions or wigs until the natural hair grows out. This will allow you to look stylish while simultaneously transitioning from relaxed hair to your natural hair. The key here is make sure braids or extensions are not too tight, and condition regularly.
Above All, Remember It’s A Journey
Remember that, ultimately, how you wear your hair is about you and what you’re comfortable with. Being natural isn’t for everyone. Relaxers aren’t for everyone. If you do decide to transition to a natural style, you may find yourself doing any or all of the options above – if this is the case, just be patient and don’t give up. Also, consult with a professional who can ease you through your journey.
It also may help you to know that I’ve personally gone through the relaxer-to-natural process. I would never go back. I am glad that I did it.
By Jacqueline Tarrant, BDO Hair Expert
Jacqueline Tarrant is a beauty expert, consultant, columnist, founder & CEO of Style Infinity Products & The Hair Trauma Center in downtown Chicago. Jacqueline Tarrant has pioneered effective methods to help men & women re-grow hair with her multi-layered approach to hair loss, known as Quadra-Follicle Stimulation. Jacqueline’s expertise on hair care and hair health is expressed monthly in national columns that reach millions through various publications. With numerous Style & Beauty appearances nationwide on Good Morning America, NBC, CBS, & the Fox Network; Jacqueline’s credits also extend throughout print in such publications as Seventeen, Cosmopolitan, Essence & the Wall Street Journal.
Her reputation as a renowned Educator, Trainer and Platform Artist has taken her throughout Canada, Europe, Africa, South America and the Caribbean.
The Worst Diet Myths
(BlackDoctor.org) – You dream of one day fitting into that new dress or those new pants that you bought a couple sizes too small, figuring it would give you the incentive to lose those extra pounds. But that was a year ago! What happened? You may have been lured in by one of five convincing, yet untrue, weight loss myths that are just a little too tough to live up to. Here’s the truth about them:
Myth 1: Your Ideal Weight Is What You Weighed Twenty Years Ago
If you’re hoping to get back to what you weighed a year or two ago, that’s fine. There’s a chance you really might get close to that weight again. But if we’re talking 15 or 20 years ago, you might want to reconsider. Many people put on weight as they get older. And no matter how hard they try, they have a tough time being as active as they might have been in their early twenties. Don’t live in the past. Set a weight-loss goal that’s appropriate for the way you live now.
Myth 2: Your Ideal Weight Is the Number Listed On a Standard Height and Weight Chart.
True, height and weight are often related. Taller people weigh more than shorter ones, in general. But many other factors play a role in determining what you weigh. For example:
- Your body type: Big-boned and solid, small-boned and light, or in between
- Your metabolism: Whether you naturally burn brightly and move a lot, or take things more slowly
- The number of fat cells you have
- How much your parents and other relatives weigh
The number listed for someone your height on a standard weight and height chart is just an approximation of what your healthy weight should be. Don’t let this one number be the way you determine if you’ve succeeded or failed.
Myth 3: Your Ideal Weight Is The Lowest Number of Pounds You Can Possibly Lose
Okay, so you’ve lost that much weight. But the fact that you’re dieting again says you gained at least some or perhaps all of it back again. If you set a weight-loss goal that’s too low for you to maintain, you’ll get caught in the trap of yo-yo dieting, losing weight, gaining it back, and trying to lose it again. The best weight goal is one you can live with for a very long period of time.
Myth 4: The Less You Weigh, The Healthier You’ll Be.
Not true. In fact, many studies show that if you’re overweight, even seriously overweight, losing just 5 percent of your current weight is all you have to do to get the bulk of the health benefits. Lose that much and you’ll dramatically lower your risk of heart disease, stroke, diabetes, and even some forms of cancer. In fact, most of the health payoff comes in that first 5 to 10 percent.
Myth 5: If You Don’t Fit Into That Smaller-Sized Dress/Pair of Pants, You’ll Never Be Happy.
You don’t believe that, do you? A number is just a number. And if it’s a number that leaves you frustrated and stuck in an endless cycle of losing weight and gaining it back again, it’s time to exchange it for a more reasonable one.