The Skin-y On Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Ancient Egyptians reportedly bathed in sour milk, a source of alpha hydroxy acids, to obtain glowing skin. Fortunately for us, we can get the same benefit with a more pleasant scent.

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Benefits of AHAs

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are naturally found in milk (lactic acid), fruit (glycolic acid) and sugar cane (citric acid). Synthetic versions are also available. Dr. Debra Jaliman, an assistant professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai and author of Skin Rules: Trade Secrets from a Top New York Dermatologist (St. Martin’s Press), explains how AHAs enhance the skin: “They work by dissolving the glue that sticks the epidermal cells together so they help remove the dead skin cells off the surface. They exfoliate the skin and make your skin look brighter and smoother and even the skin color.” This simple process leads to some rather big results:

smoothing fine lines
improving skin texture
providing a more even skin tone
preventing breakouts by unclogging pores
increasing moisture retention by binding water to skin

Scientific studies suggest AHAs stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis. This is a significant finding because collagen and elastin provide strength and elasticity in skin. .

How to Use AHA Products

While AHAs are effective, there are some recommendations by skin care professionals on the best way to use them:

One acid at a time. Jaliman recommends avoiding other acids when using AHAs. “(W)hen you use AHA’s you want to make certain that you don’t use a lot of other acids like salicylic acid and retinol because you can irritate your skin and make it red and it will start to peel. If you want to use other anti-aging products with the AHAs, it is better to use antioxidants or peptides which are gentler,” she says.