Recently I published a piece here on BlackDoctor.org, 10 Things Professional Hairstylists Want Us to Stop Doing to Our Hair, and it seems one of the stylists struck a major nerve. Professional hairstylist Aeleise Jana said she would like y’all to “Stop with the coconut oil and shea butter.”
“Stop with the coconut oil and shea butter," she said. Has this chick has lost her mind?!
Nope, she hasn’t lost her mind! In fact, she’s a professional natural hairstylist, a self-professed “Curl Geek” whose seen 100s of clients who’ve shared a few things in common. They’ve complained of dry frizzy hair and they were using coconut oil and shea butter like nobody’s business.
I asked Aeleise to share her professional knowledge on why she wants us all to stop with coconut oil and shea butter and here are the 7 reasons why.
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1. They’re heavy.
In the realm of oils and butters coconut and shea are among the heaviest. They are so heavy, in fact, that they can create a barrier between your hair shaft and water. Aeleise says, “Shea butter and coconut oil used the way most consumers do suffocates the hair and scalp. Moisture = water. Oil= sealant. If you don't clarify the oil layer off of the hair and allow water to get into the cuticle you're moisturizing dry hair.”
2. They lead to dry hair.
I’m sure you think that sheen from your oil/butter you see on your hair gives you the impression that it’s moisturized. However, according to Aeleise, “Water evaporates in 4-7 days from hair so adding coconut oil or shea butter to dry hair then co-washing or using weaker sulfate- free shampoos contributes to the experience of dry hair.”
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3. They cause frizz.
When hair is shampooed and sealed with either coconut oil or shea the hair is blocked from absorbing any moisture from the atmosphere. According to Aeleise, “Anything on top of that already closed cuticle seals water in and out.” In the case of coconut oil and shea butter, we are sealing water out of the hair, thus not allowing it to gain entrance to our hair strands.
She further goes on to explain, “Once the water stored in the hair evaporates [after] 4-7 days, the hair reaches out to the atmosphere for water (e.g. dry, rough, frizzy hair).”
4. They do not moisturize the hair.
Water=Moisture. Oil=Sealent. “There's no need for oils (natural or petroleum based) on the hair but for sealing or lubrication. A healthy scalp contains sebaceous glands that provide a protective layer for the scalp skin. Light oils that form a protective barrier around the hair strand are fine. What's not okay is an absorbed oil (coconut oil and shea butter) that blocks water out of the hair strand.”
5. You’re using way too much.
You got coconut oil everywhere...it’s on your shirt, in your eye (and it’s burning!), on your man. In fact, you could caress your hands through your hair and still use it to moisturize your entire body. It isn’t necessary for your favorite shirt, eyes or man to suffer through your coconut oil abuse.
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6. They’re not water soluble.
Aeleise suggests, “alternative ingredients like aloe vera, marshmallow root, jojoba oil, almond oil, etc. that are water soluble or able to be easily removed with a light cleanser serve the hair better. Also, a properly formulated lower ph conditioner does the job of closing the cuticle down over the water therefore sealing.”
7. They cause build up.
So you're an avid user of coconut oil/shea butter and you use it religiously. Not only do you think this is the holy grail to your hair regimen, you’re also pretty insistent about using sulfate-free shampoos. Often a sulfate-free shampoo or co-wash doesn’t include surfactants that are strong enough to remove the buildup. You repeat the process over and over again without clarifying and soon enough end up with permanently dry hair. Aleise advises that reducing or eliminating the use of coconut oil and shea butter eliminates the need for harsh shampoos.
Get Ready for the 30 Day Hair Detox!
This couldn’t have come at a better time as Aeleise and I are actually preparing for a 30 Day Hair Detox. During this 30 day challenge we are asking participants to not use coconut oil, shea butter, castor oil or Eco Styler gel in their hair regimen. Our 30 Day Hair Detox is designed to teach you to rethink how you choose and use products while cultivating the best curls of your life.
The 30 Day Hair Detox is scheduled to start Monday January 4, 2016. In the meantime like, follow or visit chocolatecurlsbeauty.com or like, follow or visit hairloveart.com to get the latest info on this curl changing challenge. While visiting either of our sites signup to our email list to get all the latest information on our 30 Day Hair Detox delivered directly to your inbox.
Leading up to the challenge we will be discussing products, oils, proper hair maintenance and we will be here to support those who decide to join us for this curl changing challenge.
We’re looking forward to helping you guys get the best curls of your life!
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Aishia Strickland is full-time mom to a little Chocolate Prince, full-time beauty school student, lover of multi-textured hair, tastemaker, Editor of Chocolate Curls Beauty and a knower of all THINGS!
