Turning your bathroom sink into a hair laboratory is not only expensive but it isn’t necessary. There are some very simple guidelines that we can all follow to help make this task uncomplicated and affordable.
To make your next natural hair product purchase seamless and successful we’ve put together 6 simple tips to get you started.
1. Look for products with water soluble ingredients.
While the general focus for most naturals is to avoid silicones, the focus needs to be shifted to choosing products that are water soluble. Water soluble products can be broken down with water and/or may be removed with gentle surfactants. This means that you can use much milder cleansers to keep the hair hydrated and clean.
2. Look for products with botanically based ingredients.
According to cosmeticinfo.com, “A botanical ingredient is a component of a cosmetic or personal care product that originates from plants (herbs, roots, flowers, fruits, leaves or seeds). Specific ingredients derived from biological sources are classified based on their chemical structure and how they are isolated from plants.”
“Plant-derived (botanical) ingredients were among the very first cosmetics. Natural colorants, plant juices for soothing and protection from insect pests, and fragrant oils for imparting scent were all used in ancient times.”
Naturals should be on the lookout for products containing ingredients like marshmallow root, aloe, nettle and horsetail, just to name a few.
3. Avoid products with coconut oil, castor and shea butter in the first 5 of the ingredients.
Natural Hair Stylist Aeleise Jana noticed a common trend amongst her clients that were complaining of dry hair. After consulting with numerous clients she noticed a common thread: they were all using heavy oils and butters in either the raw form or in products they were using as apart of their regimen.
Because heavy oils and butters are not water soluble, which means that it will likely take a much stronger cleanser to completely remove them from the hair, they buildup on the hair making it very difficult for the hair to acquire moisture. Aeleise says that continual use of products that fall into this category generally lead to a “perpetuall cycle of dry hair.”
4. Choose styling products based on desired style.
Some people choose stylers based off the advice from their friend or favorite YouTuber; others go off price and some just go with the prettiest packaging. That’s not how hairstyling works. Hairstyling for natural hair involves the physical change of the hydrogen bonds. Hydrogen bonds can either be impacted by the use of heat or water. With that in mind you have to always be mindful of what you want you’re desired style to look like.
For example, you wouldn’t use the same products for a wash and go that you would use for a twist out. Both styles require hold but the type of hold and set will be different for both. Wash and gos typically require a gel with medium to strong hold. For twists outs, a cream with a medium to firm hold would be the most ideal.
Using the right stylers are the difference in achieving a wash and go or a wash and no with a twist out that falls out in less than 24 hours.
5. Work on your application and technique.
Application and technique are the playground of trial and error. Here is where your lab work begins, this is where the products you choose are battle tested and where your technique becomes ever important to achieving hair success. It’s not about whether you used the LOC or LCO it’s about knowing and understanding elements like your surface texture (the appearance or feel of your hair), density (the amount of hair per square inch) and your porosity (how well your hair absorbs liquids).
Getting a handle on your technique and application will make this natural hair thing much easier.
6. Be mindful of your water quality and climate.
Water quality and climate play a huge part in not only our styling choices but they also impact the types of products we use. For example, those living in cities such as Chicago and LA have to deal with excessively hard water. Hard water contains minerals that can cling to the hair and not only create buildup but add on to the buildup that is already on the hair.
As for climate, someone living in Arizona would need totally different products than someone living in Detroit. Humidity, dew points and temperature can cause certain products to behave and perform differently.