Hairstyles are a defining feature for many people, but some 'dos can also damage hair follicles. Black women are prone to a type of hair loss called traction alopecia, which can be caused by heat, chemicals and tight styles (braids, dreadlocks, extensions and weaves) that pull at the hair root.
Traction alopecia is the gradual loss of hair from damage to the follicle due to prolonged or repeated tension on the roots. Although it's especially common among black women, it can affect anyone.
A Johns Hopkins review of 19 studies has found that many hairstyles can lead to traction alopecia.
The researchers categorized common hairdos and styling techniques as low-, moderate- and high-risk, based on the degree to which they expose follicles to factors like tension, weight, heat and chemicals.
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The most damaging are hairstyles with a lot of tension or pulling in one direction, like tight ponytails, braids, knots and buns, as well as dreadlocks, weaves and extensions -- especially when these are attached to chemically straightened hair.
Straightening can also can lead to breakage.
Extensions can also cause damage when glued directly onto the scalp and later removed.
Tight styles and the added weight of hair enhancements can lead to breakage and eventually loss.
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Moderate risk comes from excessive straightening with flat irons and blow dryers, which weakens hair shafts and increases
the likelihood of hair loss from additional styling.
Also of concern are chemicals used in permanent waves and wigs that are attached with clips and adhesives.
Low-risk hairdos are loose buns and hanging styles that don't pull on the hair.
Preventing Hair Loss
To minimize damage, don't leave in braids longer than two to three months. Remove weaves and extensions after six to eight weeks so follicles can recover from stress. And avoid wearing updos every day; vary your hairstyles regularly.
You can also try the following:
- Ask your stylist to create looser braids or dreadlocks.
- If you have relaxed or dyed hair, make sure these treatments are applied by a professional. If you still notice breakage or hair shedding, avoid chemical treatments completely.
- Minimize (or completely avoid) heat styling, including hairdryers, flat irons and curling irons. These wear out the hair and can lead to major hair loss.
Additonally, anemia, low levels of vitamin D and abnormal thyroid hormones can all affect the health of your hair.
So talk with your doctor about getting bloodwork done, which can determine if these conditions may be contributing to your hair loss.
