Besides staying out of the sun, the use of sunscreen is the only preventive remedy that has been scientifically shown to prevent external skin damage and wrinkles, says Donofrio. (The effects of sun damage are called photoaging.) The best sunscreen, dermatologists say, is a broad-spectrum sunscreen that blocks out both UVA and UVB rays and has an SPF (sun protection factor) of at least 15. Higher SPFs will give more sun protection by absorbing more of the sun’s rays. You can also use a daily moisturizer that has sunscreen in it.
Face Yoga: 9 Anti-Aging Exercises For Your Face
Finding the right cosmetics
If you find yourself dizzy in the cosmetics section of department stores, you’re not alone: A survey conducted by the American Academy of Dermatology found that 94 percent of women were confused by the vast array of anti-aging treatments available both over the counter and by prescription. Adding to this confusion is the fact that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) doesn’t verify the claims made by cosmetics firms before they go on the market, although many people think that the agency does.
Talk to your primary care physician about your skin problems. He or she may refer you to a dermatologist who specializes in skincare (rather than, say, cosmetic surgery or specific skin diseases). A doctor may be helpful if you have acne, rosacea, or other skin problems that may need prescription medicine.
You may want to see a dermatologist if you’re entering menopause or using birth control pills since hormonal fluctuations can affect the skin. They can give you personalized advice on a skincare regimen that works best for your particular skin type, says Kauvar. Don’t be fooled by extravagant claims. If an anti-aging drug or product really did turn back the clock, we’d all be hearing about it. Dermatologists say there are only a few skincare products that have demonstrated the ability — however modest — to reduce or prevent wrinkles or improve the appearance of aging skin. These products include:
- Vitamin creams. Vitamins C, A, and E act as antioxidants that may help counteract the damage caused by free radicals. However, most topical antioxidants have short-term effects or are not absorbed well into the skin. According to Donofrio, studies have shown that using topical creams with vitamin C on your face can protect the skin’s elasticity and prevent damage from sun exposure. They can be irritating, so choose one that works for you.
- Topical retinoids (or retinol) derived from vitamin A. Vitamin A derivatives such as Retin A and Renova can diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by sloughing off dead skin cells and increasing the production of new collagen. They can also help fade uneven pigmentation and reverse early sun damage. Stronger retinoids are available only with a prescription. In 1996 the FDA approved Renova (tretinoin) as the first drug to treat wrinkles. Although retinoids do work, topical estrogen creams for the face are not especially effective, says Donofrio.
- Certain exfoliants. Two chemical exfoliants found in creams and gels, alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids, can also help the skin repair itself. They can be used as a substitute for stronger retinoids if you find your skin becomes irritated. One common form is called glycolic acid. Beta hydroxy acid can be less irritating; the most widely used is salicylic acid.
Although they may be helpful for other reasons, there is no scientific evidence that taking vitamins or minerals, including omega-3 fatty acids, which are found in fatty fish such as tuna, salmon, and other foods, help your skin stay youthful, says Donofrio.
Here are some additional skincare and anti-aging tips from our panel of dermatologists:
- Although cleansers and moisturizers can make the skin feel softer, there is no scientific proof that moisturizers prevent or reduce wrinkles, says Donofrio.
- If you’re in your 30s and 40s or beyond, switch from using soap on your face to a more gentle cleanser. (Also, it’s time to stop using a drying toner.) What matters most, if you have dry or oily skin, is that you use soap or a cleanser that doesn’t leave your face filmy or too dry. It should feel best right after you wash it.
- As cell turnover slows in your 30s or later, gently exfoliate your face with exfoliating products or a buff puff to remove dead surface cells. This can help rejuvenate skin.
- Regular use of light eye creams is fine, but eye creams are only effective if they use active ingredients, such as retinoids, in a much lower concentration than a cream for, say, your arms and legs, dermatologists say.
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, some potentially useful anti-aging skincare treatments under study include alpha lipoic acid, or ALA, a naturally occurring antioxidant, and “spin traps,” antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds that bind free radicals.
One last bit of advice: Be careful about mixing your skincare products. If you pile on products, you increase the chances of using incompatible ingredients. Using one product with vitamin A and another with vitamin C can cause inflammation, as can using too many acids (such as retinol and alpha-hydroxy) at the same time. Introduce one new product at a time, and see if you can tolerate it for three days. Avoid using skincare products that cause stinging or burning.
Remember, though, there are some things you have no control over, no matter how many skincare products you buy. In the end, worrying about the state of your skin may not be as important as developing a positive self-image.
That said, and despite the paucity of scientific evidence about the youth-enhancing properties of most products and cosmetics, even some medical experts like to indulge in them now and then. Donofrio, for example, says that although she’s a doctor, she still enjoys some “girly” products that simply make her skin feel good.
“Medically and scientifically they’re probably not doing anything,” she says, “but perception has value — if it makes you feel younger when you put it on.”