So if you’re at the salon or spa, stick to “light” peels (such as glycolic peels), which have an alpha-hydroxy acid content under 10 percent and pH level above 3.5, per FDA rules. “Medium or deep peels should only be performed by a dermatologist with experience in giving them,” Dr. Terezakis says. But know that even a light peel can cause a bad reaction if it isn’t done properly.
“Glycolic acid peels have to be neutralized after several minutes with a neutralizing solution or water,” Dr. Jacob says. “If they’re left on too long, they can burn the skin, leaving blisters, scabs, and sometimes permanent redness.”
And even beta-hydroxy peels, which self-neutralize—eliminating the risk of keeping them on too long—can burn you if the acidic content is higher than it should be, she adds.
Consider the price of beauty
While the experts we spoke with agreed that it’s worth minimizing your exposure to salon hazards, nobody recommended going cold turkey on every spa service you love. But to stay safe, you must do your homework first. Before you try any new treatment—even if it’s just new to you—”look for any clinical studies on the active ingredients,” Dr. Jacob says.
Not comfortable combing through scientific research? Skin Deep (cosmeticsdatabase.com) has compiled thousands of reports on ingredient safety, and the FDA (fda.gov) issues readable consumer warnings on ingredients. Ask your doctor if she’s heard any reports about the dangers of a device or product, or has any specific concerns about its safety or its effects on you. When in doubt, it can’t hurt to wait it out until more has been learned about the service in question. “Don’t be a guinea pig!” Dr. Jacob says.
And if you have made the educated decision to go in for a treatment, investigate the place you’re getting it just as carefully. “Find out if you know anyone who’s been to the salon you’re planning to visit” and can report on safety precautions it takes, Dr. Terezakis says.
“Check with the Better Business Bureau to see if there have been any complaints. If you’re going to a place with a good reputation, they are going to want to conduct business in a way that’s safe.” For facial treatments, “trust your dermatologist over anyone else,” Dr. Jacob says.
Yes, you may have to pay a few bucks more—but you’ll be glad to have someone on hand with years of medical training and experience if something does go wrong.
How safe is a med-spa?
“Medi-spas,” which promise the pampering of a spa with the expertise of a doctor’s office, have grown in number by more than 50 percent since 2006, according to SpaFinder, which reports on the global spa industry. In theory, a medi-spa offers salon fare, like facials and massages, as well as cosmetic medical procedures like superstrength peels and laser hair removal from estheticians working under an MD’s supervision. But the regulations on medi-spas vary from state to state—and aren’t always enforced.
“Before you go, make sure a doctor specializing in dermatology or cosmetic surgery will be on hand,” says Soram Khalsa, MD, a doctor of integrative medicine on staff at Cedars-Sinai Hospital in Los Angeles.
Here’s some handy guidelines regarding services which don’t, and do, require a physician:
See a licensed esthetician (at a medi-spa, regular spa, or salon) for: Facials, massages, microdermabrasion, mud wraps, and “light” peels, including glycolic acid and enzyme peels (which have an alpha-hydroxy acid content under 10 percent and a pH level above 3.5).
See a physician for: Botox, collagen wrinkle-fillers and other injectables, laser hair removal, and “medium” or “deep” peels.